Good onya for asking Mick and I really look forward to Jerry giving some guidance - eavery time he writes something I learn a little more (sometimes a lot more )

I have only used a few tricks succesfully so far, a couple more are cooking at the moment, but I am not yet able to determine whether they have been succesful or not.

One of htem is actually the root over rock in the picture....I have done a number of root over rocks using glad wrap to wrap the roots with. More recently I have been using this flexible horse bandage and found a number of benefits with it...more on that in another year.

I have used some of the sages tricks such as putting a tile directly beneath a fig to get root flare and even distribution of roots

Then another trick that is used is to fuse figs together to get a broad tapering trunk quickly - but it leaves a hollow centre which could yet prove to be problematic....

Now over to you Jerry

Regards
Steve

Steve,
I don't think the hollow in your fused fig design will be a problem.
Thanks for sharing your tips.
Jerry

Yes thanks for sharing. If anyone has anymore I would love to hear about them.
I am currently growing my figs inside. It is fairly warm at the moment, but we could still get a cold snap. When it does warm up and I aclimatise my figs to the sun, should they be in full sun, semi-sun, or shaded? I dont want to burn the little buggers.
The two smaller ones I have are going to be re-potted and I will use a tile underneath for some root flare. I was thinking of using ply board so I could maybee drill holes and anchor the roots evenly on the tree?
Cheers
Mick

Mick,
The board idea sounds fine. Give it a try.
As to sun, not sure how intense it is in your area but full sun works fine for most growers in the US.
You will need to sun adapt your trees over a few weeks acclimating them gradually from house lighting to full sun.
Jerry

Gday all.
I still havent gotten round to take a pic of the fig yet
I will post some soon. They are starting to grow very rapidly now that the weather is strating to warm up. We had 37deg c yesterday, and an even hotter one today. I have it in full sun with a water tray underneath. Will this be ok or should I move it to a shaded spot in this heat?
Cheers
Mick

If the trees are not wilting the temperature is still fine for them.
Jerry

bonsaihunk wrote:Hi Guys,
Great question on fertilizing figs.
Dustin, uses mainly organic fertilizer and has great looking trees.
I use mainly or totally inorganic fertilizers and my trees look quite healthy and vigorous.
I think figs grow well with any fertilizing regime. I think you can even combine organic and inorganic. Fertilize your trees once or twice a week when they are growing new leaves and back down to once every two weeks when they are not growing. As with any bonsai fertilize only when the tree has been watered first.
Never fertilize a sick tree or one that has been recently repotted.
Alternating brand or type of fertilizer is probably a nice safety precaution.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
PS would like to see a photo of your fig. Port Phillip Bay fig is one that I am not familiar with.

Hi Jerry,
I've brought my ficus in for the winter and it didn't like it......but after loosing most of its leaves its "flushing" nicely.
My question is in regards to fertilizing/watering it once or twice a week (which really works out to 2-4 times)......does that treatment apply for indoor conditions as I was assuming that one watered when the soil was almost dry?
Cheers Graham

Hi Graham,
I am not sure about your question.
Water as needed allowing the soil to get nearly dry before watering again.
Fertilize once or twice a week when the tree is growing new leaves after watering with plain water first.
During winter rest you can cut fertilizing down to every two weeks. Never fertilize a sick or repotted tree.
Jerry

Hi Jerry I’ll try to clarify.
Some background - Even though it is almost technically winter, my tree is flushing out new leaves everywhere as it defoliated itself after I brought it in for the winter (in early October). Based on your recommendations I should be fertilizing twice a week.

So I’m a little confused about your two main suggestions:
According to your suggestion “Fertilize once or twice a week when the tree is growing new leaves after watering with plain water first“–
With my tree growing vigorously, I should be fertilizing once or twice a week (so it actually gets water 2 to 4 times a week- as we must water first then applies the fert/water).

This seems to go against your first suggestion of watering when it’s almost dry?
For the soil to dry out on my ficus, it takes about 7-10 days, so I couldn’t get to fertilize twice a week?

Am I letting it dry out too much? (I use my finger and weight of pot and take into consideration the RH over the previous week or so). Should I still try and fertilize twice in 10 days while it is still growing vigorously?
The general rule of thumb for all most of my indoor plants during the summer is that they get paid when I do (which is every two weeks) and I water first then fertilizer (water soluable 20-20-20) at the recommended strength but in winter I only give them 1/2 the rec. fert.?
Cheers Graham

Graham,
You water only when your soil nearly dries, rule 1.
Do not fertilize more often than you water, since it would break rule one.
Thus if your trees dry out only every 7-10 days you would only fertilize after that watering.
I am concerned that your soil stays moist for 10 days. My ideal is to have soil that dries out in 36-48 hours. That allow watering every one to two days.
Jerry