The Notch Method by Colin Lewis

Colin demonstrates how to put radical bends into trunks and branches with the notch technique

How many trees have you done this method to?

Irene, I have used this method numerous times in re-positioning thicker branches and once or twice in re-aligning an apex.

What trees would you Not use this method on?

What trees would you Not use this method on?

Irene any tree that is slow to heal i.e....forum a callus. The knitting of the cells under pressure is what will make a set in the branch or trunk. So Junipers as an example would not be a good candidate as the callous actually shrinks back from the original cut mark.

So what ever natives the great state of Texas has that heal quickly would be worth experimenting with.

irene_b wrote:What trees would you Not use this method on?

I too have used this method several times in the past, and in fact have a couple trees in the process currently...The technique works with ease and almost without failure on ficus and bald cypress, usually works well on elms, maples, and pines, with caution it can work on junipers and true cypress but due to die-back of cambium they must be sealed well, I have used it with success on bougainvillea, boxwood, crepe myrtle, and yaupon holly, but the wood is so brittle on these species extreme caution is advised, and because of the thin bark they should also be sealed well...

Regards
Behr

Dad helped me last year with this type of bending. It worked great and the tree healed very quickly. I did one by myself and didn't do so good. The cut was very hard for me to do to get it to line up right. There must be a secret to this and I am going to look closer the next time. Hopefully Dad and I will do it again this year.

This looks very interesting to try on a few of my jbp's growing in the field and some BC's I got. Thanks Colin and Tom for this...inspiration so to speak

I tried this method on a cascading juniper a few years ago and yes it did work to a certain degree but the wound is still detectable. Hard to see in the pic but it is there on the underside at the bend. Terrible busy pics too.

Ash

Gday folks!

My ignorance of Northern Hemisphere conifers is well documented in the world of Internet Bonsai, so please bear this in mind. I had read Colin's article when it was first posted, and it came to mind when considering styling a nursery Juniper (J. sabina) in my so-called collection. Upon re-reading, I find that Colin suggests not using the notch method for Junies. I see that Mr Barns has used the method on a Juniper with a 'certain degree' of success, so I am a little stumped here.



The Juniper in question presents a finger-thick trunk which needs some movement at a branch junction. Do I try the notch method and risk the cut not healing, or should I find another way to achieve the bending I require?

Thanks to Colin for the informative article, and thanks in advance for any suggestions.

FlyBri
(AKA Brian Pribble)